Sunday Blog 155 – 6th October 2024
I’m running a little behind–or is it a little ahead–in my Sunday blogs on this valedictory trip remembering my dear Mum. There’s a bit of commuting going on. London. Athens. Limnisa. London. New York. That’s all since 18th September. As I’m in America now, it was already Sunday on Saturday, so it’s quite easy for me to become flummoxed and feel like I’m missing deadlines.
Last Sunday’s blog was a piece I wrote at Limnisa, but I didn’t talk about Limnisa itself. I thought I’d save my Limnisa Love Note for this week. It gives me a chance to re-warm myself with the memories.
There’s no getting around it – it’s a schlep getting to Limnisa. But then, that’s true of anywhere in Greece. Limnisa isn’t on the map, it’s a retreat centre situated close to Methana (as in methane). Methana is a port town in a volcanic area with hot springs and mud baths. Occasionally there can be a hint of sulphur/ rotten egg in the air, but the wind blows it away. Once the ferry from Athens (2.5 hours) drops you at Methana, Limnisa is a ten minute taxi ride. After all that, you’re dropped at a dirt path. The first time I attended Limnisa five years ago, I stood at the top of the path for a while, not quite sure what to do next. This time I knew you’ve got to walk down the dirt and gravel path just a little for Limnisa to suddenly appear like a miracle.
And really, isn’t that a metaphor for writing? A lot of schlepping, last minute total confusion then voila! One great sentence.
Once you’re at Limnisa, you have your meals, tea, coffee, wine on tap. There’s yoga and meditation depending on the day. The beach is just there for a dip any time you feel like (bring your beach shoes), and your room is a haven to retreat to for a nap.
There’s also apartment accommodation a fifteen minute walk away for those who prefer it, or when the Retreat Centre is full. The apartments are modern and there’s less competition for bathrooms, and the view from the balcony of the sunrise and sunset was to die for. I tried both this stay, but I did find the walk to the retreat centre was a bit tricky. I kept missing the path in the olive groves and ending up in someone’s back yard, having to scramble up rocky slopes to get back on track. And did I mention the heat? After 10am it was quite a hot walk. I should’ve taken up the offer of using a bike.
As well as sun and swimming at Limnisa, there’s outings including taverna visits and walks, and hot spring visits if you fancy covering yourself with mud. Then there are the sunrises, the sunsets, the everyday quiet miracles of a beautiful location.
What’s special to me about Limnisa is the tradition of no talking until 1pm. It’s simple magic. Mostly women attend Limnisa, and to have a ban on talking is just what we need to be released from the tyranny of social engagement. To put our writing first.
But then, when 1pm passes and we meet for a delicious Greek lunch, the talk naturally turns to our writing projects. And all water cooler conversations are about writing. If you want to turn to books for inspiration, the shelves are groaning with them. I read a memoir written by Hilary Mantel I’d never heard of (An Experiment in Love – would recommend).
A week’s stay is the minimum, but I wish I’d stayed for two. Holidays are supposed to go slowly, but this week sped by.
And there’s this. A quarter of this trip was paid for by my writing. I won fourth prize in the Limnisa Writing Competition held in 2023, and received 25% off the cost of my stay, to be redeemed by 2024. There were so many times during the week I thanked myself to making the effort to come and claim it.
I dreamed of Mum so vividly twice while at Limnisa. That hadn’t happened at home in Perth. The first time I was so excited to see her then realised she was gone and I’d have to grieve her all over again. The second dream was a gentler visit that ended in a hug. Just as in real life, I made sure to tell her who I was before I hugged her because she couldn’t see any more. She confirmed she knew it was me and she hugged me so warmly. I think I could get used to the dream visits.